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The LED activates so the battery and firing circuit work, but no vapour comes out. This usually means the coil is not heating, even though the device is sending power. The five common causes: dead or dry coil, blocked airflow, no e-liquid reaching the wick, dirty connections or wattage too low for the coil.
When the LED comes on, it confirms three things: the battery has charge, the fire button works and the firing circuit is sending power. If you are still getting no vapour, the problem is somewhere between the firing circuit and the coil itself.
The LED firing without vapour is actually useful information. It rules out the most common serious problems (battery, button, lock) and points you toward the coil, airflow or connection.
01
Dead or worn-out coil
The coil is no longer heating. Most common cause when the LED is on but nothing happens. Replace and prime.
02
Dry wick
Fresh coil that has not been primed, or wick that has run dry. The coil fires but there is no liquid to vapourise. Stop firing and let it soak.
03
Blocked airflow
Coil heats and vapourises liquid but vapour cannot reach your mouth. Closed airflow ring, blocked mouthpiece or condensed liquid in the chimney.
04
Dirty contacts
E-liquid residue insulates the 510 connection between tank and battery. Power leaves the battery but does not fully reach the coil. Wipe with a cotton bud.
05
Wattage too low
Coil is being fired well below its recommended range. Slight heating but not enough to vapourise the liquid. Check the coil's wattage rating and increase.
Work through these checks in order. Most cases are solved within the first three steps.
Check the airflow
Look at the airflow control on the tank or pod. Is it fully closed? Open it fully and try again. On pod kits without adjustable airflow, check the airflow hole at the base is not blocked by lint or pocket fluff.
Check the mouthpiece
Look down the mouthpiece. Is it blocked by condensed e-liquid or debris? Wipe clean with a tissue. On removable drip tips, pull off and check the inside of the chimney.
Check the e-liquid level and prime status
Is there liquid in the tank or pod? Is it above the side wicking holes on the coil? A fresh coil needs priming. Let the device sit for 5-10 minutes if you have just installed a new coil.
Reseat the coil
Unscrew or unclick the coil and reseat it firmly. Make sure it connects fully to the tank base.
Clean the contacts
Take the tank off the battery. Wipe the centre pin on the 510 connection with a dry cotton bud. Also wipe the matching contact on the base of the tank.
Check the wattage
Look at the coil's wattage rating. Set your device to the middle of the recommended range. Under-firing a coil produces minimal vapour even when the device is firing.
Try a fresh coil
If everything above fails, the coil itself is the problem. Replace and prime properly.
People mean different things by “not hitting”. Identifying the symptom precisely helps with the fix.
Auto-draw pod kits (no fire button, activated by inhaling) have a different failure mode. The LED on these usually means the device has detected something, but the airflow sensor itself can fail.
A coil that runs well below its rated wattage may heat slightly but not enough to vapourise liquid effectively. The result: LED on, slight warmth, but no real vapour.
Right wattage
Wattage too low
Practical example: a 0.6 ohm coil rated 15-25W needs at least 15W to function. At 10W you may see the LED come on but get almost no vapour. Set it to 18-20W and the same coil performs normally.
LED on means the battery and circuit work
The problem is between the circuit and the vapour you should be inhaling. Coil, airflow or contacts are the usual culprits.
Start with airflow and coil
Most cases are blocked airflow or a dead coil. Both are quick to check and easy to fix.
Replace the coil before suspecting the device
Coils fail before devices do. A £2 replacement coil usually solves what looks like a £40 device failure.
Part of our guide
Plain-English guides to vape kit, e-liquid and common problems for UK vapers.
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