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The coil is the heating element that turns e-liquid into vapour. It is a small piece of metal wire or mesh wrapped in cotton wick. When you fire the device, electricity heats the metal, which heats the e-liquid soaked into the cotton, which becomes the vapour you inhale. The most common part you will replace.
A vape coil has two simple components working together: a metal element that heats up when electricity passes through it, and a cotton wick that carries e-liquid to that hot element. Everything else (the metal housing, the threading, the o-rings) is just packaging.
E-liquid wicks into cotton
E-liquid in the tank or pod soaks into cotton wick via the wicking holes on the side of the coil. Capillary action does the work.
You press fire or inhale
Battery sends current through the metal heating element. The element heats up rapidly, typically to 200-300 degrees Celsius.
Heat vapourises liquid
The hot metal vapourises the e-liquid soaked into the cotton in contact with it. Vapour fills the chamber.
Air carries vapour to you
Your inhale draws air through the airflow holes, past the coil, picking up vapour and delivering it through the mouthpiece.
Cotton re-wicks
Between puffs, fresh e-liquid wicks back into the cotton, ready for the next firing.
This is why “dry hits” happen. If the cotton has not re-wicked enough between puffs, or if the wick is too dry from chain vaping, the hot metal heats dry cotton instead of liquid. That burns the cotton itself, giving you the acrid burnt taste.
Every coil has a resistance, measured in ohms (the Ω symbol). This number is printed on the coil and on the box. It determines how much current the battery sends through the coil at a given voltage.
Two designs dominate modern coils. Mesh is now standard for sub-ohm; wire is more common in smaller MTL coils.
Mesh coils
Wire coils (traditional)
The metal used in the heating element affects performance, taste and which modes the coil works in.
For most UK vapers, you do not need to think about coil material. Whatever your tank uses is probably fine. The exception is if you want temperature control mode, in which case you need nickel, titanium or specific stainless steel coils.
Coil life varies enormously. Most coils last 1-3 weeks of regular use. Some last days, some last a month or more.
Even with perfect care, coils eventually accumulate residue called “gunk” that reduces flavour and life. Understanding what causes it helps you slow it down.
What to do about it: choose lighter, less-sweetened flavours where possible (menthol, fruit rather than dessert), run wattage at the middle of the recommended range, take short pauses between puffs, and accept that coils are consumables.
Empty the tank
Most tanks need to be empty before changing the coil. Pour remaining e-liquid into a clean container or tissue.
Unscrew or remove the old coil
Twist or pull the old coil out. Note how it sits. Inspect the o-rings while you are in there.
Prime the new coil
Apply 4-6 drops of e-liquid directly to each cotton wicking hole on the new coil. See our guide on priming a coil.
Install and refill
Screw or click the primed coil into the tank. Refill with e-liquid.
Wait 5-10 minutes
The wick needs time to fully saturate. Skipping this is the most common cause of burnt first puffs on new coils.
Start at lower wattage
First few puffs at the bottom of the coil's recommended range. Work up to your normal wattage over a minute.
The coil is the heating element
Metal wire or mesh with cotton wick. Vapourises e-liquid when electricity passes through. The most-replaced part of any vape.
Resistance defines the vape style
Above 1.0Ω = MTL. Below 1.0Ω = sub-ohm DTL. The number on the coil tells you what to expect.
Coils are consumables
Plan to replace every 1-3 weeks. Sweetened e-liquid and high wattage shorten coil life. Lighter flavours and middle-of-range wattage extend it.
Part of our guide
Plain-English guides to vape kit, e-liquid and common problems for UK vapers.
Back to Consumer Guides